Hochfernerspitze (3470 m) is one of the highest peaks of the Zillertal Alps, rising along the main ridge of the range in South Tyrol, right beside the Austrian border. It's a mountain built for lovers of classic ice climbing and sweeping alpine views.

Above 2500 metres the entire mountain is glaciated, forming dramatic ice faces up to 950 metres high on the northwest side, in places as steep as 70°. These north walls host classic ice climbing routes of alpine mountaineering. The summit itself and the connecting ridge toward Hinterer Weißspitze and Hochfeiler remain ice-free, though usually snow-covered outside of high summer. On the south side, glacial retreat on the Weißkarferner is clearly visible - a stark reminder of climate change reshaping this landscape.

How to reach the summit

• Hochfeilerhütte (2710 m) — combined ice and rock route, approx. 3 hours, UIAA grade I, requires proper gear and experience
• Edelrauthütte (2545 m) — via the Gliderferner glacier, approx. 5-6 hours
• Furtschaglhaus (2295 m) — from the north via the Rötkees glacier, 8-9 hours, sections up to UIAA grade II

Practical information

• Climbers attempting the north faces use the Günther-Messner-Hochferner-Biwak (2429 m), 2.5 hours above the hamlet of Stein, as a base
• The Austrian-Italian border runs along a side ridge 500 metres northeast of the summit
• Routes require glacier mountaineering experience and appropriate equipment

The first ascent took place on 8 August 1878, made by Rudolf Seyerlen together with mountain guides Stefan Kirchler and Hans Niederwieser, who also climbed Hochfeiler along the way.