The Schrammacher (3,410 m) is the second highest peak of the Tux ridge in the Zillertal Alps, right after the Olperer. Its dramatic horn shape and steep, smooth northwest wall make it one of the most striking summits along the Austrian-Italian border in Tyrol.

This is a mountain of contrasts: the east flank plunges 1,600 m into the Zamser Grund valley, while the imposing 900 m northwest face of slabby rock towers above the head of the Alpeiner and Vals valleys. Three glaciers still cling to its slopes - the Alpeiner Ferner, the Oberschrammacher Ferner, and the sizeable Stampflkees. In summer it draws experienced alpine hikers for its ridge scrambling and sweeping views over the Zillertal Alps, while its north face has long attracted serious mountaineers, especially in winter conditions.

How to reach the summit

• Pfitscherjoch hut (2,248 m) - the normal route heads north-northeast across the western edge of the Stampflkees glacier, then follows the south ridge to the top, moderately difficult climbing (UIAA I-II), about 5 hours, demanding
• Olpererhütte (2,389 m, above the Schlegeis reservoir) or Gera hut (2,324 m, at the end of the Vals valley) - these approaches take over 6 hours with increased rockfall risk below the Schrammacher walls

Practical information

• The normal route passes near the Austrian-Italian border at the Pfitscherjoch
• Requires UIAA I-II climbing skills plus experience with glacier and high-alpine terrain
• Increased rockfall danger below the walls when approaching from Olpererhütte or Gera hut

The first ascent in 1847 was largely forgotten, and for decades a later 1874 climb was mistakenly credited as the first - a mix-up only corrected in 1901. In 1951, legendary climber Hermann Buhl led the first winter ascent of the formidable northwest face.