The Lüsener Fernerkogel is one of the most striking peaks of the Stubai Alps, towering above the Lüsenstal valley. Its distinctive, pyramid-like silhouette can be spotted from far away, and reaching the summit is a proper high-alpine adventure involving glacier travel, rock and sweeping panoramic views.

The peak forms the northeastern end of a roughly three-kilometre ridge that runs from the Hinterer Brunnenkogel via the Vorderer Brunnenkogel, Lüsener Spitze and Rotgratspitze. To the west, steep rock walls known as the Brunnenkogelwände drop into the Längental valley, while to the east lies the Lüsener Ferner glacier. Separated from it by a rocky step called the Plattige Wand is the smaller Rotgratferner glacier. To the north and east, steep rock faces and a sharp northeast ridge dominate the scenery. In winter and spring the surrounding slopes are popular with ski tourers, while in summer the exposed rocky sections call for some scrambling experience.

How to reach the summit

• Franz-Senn-Hütte — via the Rinnennieder pass (2899 m), across the Lüsener Ferner glacier, the Plattige Wand and the Rotgratferner glacier to a notch at 3198 m, then along the rocky south ridge (UIAA I) to the top — demanding, glacier experience required
• Alpengasthaus Lüsens (end of the road through the Lüsenstal valley) — via the Kleines Horntal, also a popular ski touring route

Good to know

• Glacier equipment (crampons, ice axe, possibly rope) is essential for crossing the Lüsener Ferner and Rotgratferner
• The final stretch is a rocky ridge rated UIAA I
• An alternative route via the extremely loose west face is rarely climbed today and not recommended
• The steep gully east of the Rotgratferner is used as a ski descent in winter but is prone to rockfall in summer

The mountain was first mentioned in a document as early as 1142, a testament to how long its bold profile has caught the eye of people living in the Sellraintal valley.